The news that The Creameries, beloved Chorlton institution, was closing at Christmas came as a hard blow to loyal fans of the restaurant and of chef owner Mary-Ellen McTague - another great restaurant, lost to lockdown. But if the last two years have taught the industry anything, it’s how to execute a good pivot. 

Enter Campagna at The Creameries. Same space, same quality, care and skill as we’ve come to expect from everything Mary-Ellen (@maryellenmctague) is involved with, but with a little more of the rustic charm that the new name suggests. Think less tasting menu, more bar snacks and plates that you can, but probably won’t want to, share. 

Hats off to Mike Thomas (@umbrafood), who’s stepped into the role of head chef and brought along his love of Southern European cooking, with a small menu of well-executed classics such as beef shin/wild rabbit ragù, confit duck leg with puy lentils, panisse, and cuttlefish stew.

It’s the simple stuff that’s often hard to nail: nowhere to hide, no fancy ingredients or techniques to obfuscate the diner. This is where Campagna shines, from those buttery buttery olives to fresh pasta made daily, alongside perfect slabs of focaccia - the best I’ve had. This is food you actually want to eat, made with skill and attention to detail (and of course local, seasonal ingredients from the likes of Littlewoods and Cinderwood Market Garden). For a standout dish to be a ‘simple’ salad of artichoke, cabbage and celery - such a lively counterbalance to the richer dishes and a welcome hit of freshness in a bleak February in Manchester - really does say it all.

The restaurant itself is unchanged, with the same understated, calm interior. The walls feature artwork from Jacob Timms (@jcbtimms), another from the talented ex-Creameries bunch alongside Chris Drury (@cavetrolldrury), who designed the new Campagna logo. It’s a nice touch, inviting local artists into the project, and demonstrative of the inclusive atmosphere the team’s managed to foster. There’s a children’s menu, which is refreshing for a decent restaurant yet so appropriate for somewhere leaning into Southern European culture. You could also happily come on your own when you want to drag out a Sunday but don’t want a fuss, just a plate of good food and a glass or two of something delicious to stave off the coming week. 

This crowd-pleasing effect doesn’t diminish the quality of what’s going on here, but rather enhances what it’s all about. It feels like an homage to those little neighbourhood spots so ubiquitous in southern Europe but still so rare in Manchester. There’s nothing shouty or pretentious about it. It’s just good food made well. And that’s something everyone can, and should, enjoy. 

Campagna at The Creameries

406 Wilbraham Rd, Manchester M21 0SD

www.thecreameries.co.uk

@campagna_creameries